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"Saving Our Global Heritage" - the book
"Saving Our Global Heritage" - the book
     
BANTEAY CHHMAR, CAMBODIA
14° 4' N, 103° 7' E
12th c. AD
Khmer
 
© Andy Brouwer
 
© Shin-ichi Nishimoto

SITE
The citadel of Banteay Chhmar was commissioned by the 12th Century Khmer King Jayavarman VII (AD 1181-1219) in honour of four army generals, and his son, the Crown Prince Indravarman. These five men were killed defending the Khmer Empire against the Champa Kingdom, located in what is now Vietnam.

© Andy Brouwer

Jayavarman VII is generally considered to be the Khmer Empire's greatest king, and the most ambitious and spectacular architectural projects were carried out during his reign. As a Khmer king he was worshipped as a god, but unlike previous kings he chose to associate himself with the Buddhist Bodhisattva Avalokiteshavara, instead of a Hindu god. A devout Buddhist, he proclaimed Buddhism the state religion.

Carrying on the tradition of the cult of Devaraja, or "god-king," Jayavarman had many temples erected in his own honour. The King's Temples, most notably the Bayon Temple in Angkor Thom as well as the temple in Banteay Chhmar, all bear numerous renditions of the smiling face of Avalokiteshavara. Sculpture in the Bayon style is characterized by an extreme sense of spirituality. The figures are imbued with a serenity that echoes the Buddhist teachings. Legend has it that the face on these temples is actually a representation of Jayavarman's face, and the expression the face bears is often referred to as "the Khmer smile".

Ironically, Jayavarman's architectural endeavours are ultimately what lead to his empire's ruin. The construction of these great temples depleted resources to a point where the empire could barely support or defend itself. In 1431 the Thai army defeated the Khmers and effectively crushed the empire.

ARCHITECTURE
The temple complex lies sixty kilometres north of Sisophon and just thirteen kilometres from the Thai border. Originally covering an area of 2.5 x 2 kilometres and surrounded by a moat, the site of Banteay Chhmar resembles those of the more famous Khmer temple complexes of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom.

The site consists of the main temple made of sandstone, other religious structures, and a baray to the east of the temple. Outside the main area of the temple, on the other side of the moat and across from the temple's eastern entrance lies a rest-house, or dharmasala.

© Andy Brouwer

The temple proper is surrounded by a wall measuring 250 x 190 metres, with four gopuras, or entranceways, in the middle of each wall. The outer faces of the walls contain three-tiered bas-reliefs depicting alternating military and religious scenes. Some parts of the walls have collapsed, but the best reliefs can be found on the south wall, including a series of eight colossal standing, multi-armed Lokitesvaras. Much of the temple itself lies in piles of collapsed walls and roofs. The central sanctuary (170 x 40m) remains intact, and many of the towers and gopuras, both with and without carved faces, also remain. Near the centre of the jumbled ruins three towers with carved with faces stand alone as a reminder of the grandeur of past centuries and the power of the Khmer Empire.

CONSERVATION
© Shin-ichi Nishimoto
During the 1970s, and continuing into the 1990s, the worst damage was done to the temple complex. During the rule of the Khmer Rouge all preservation projects and efforts in Cambodia were abandoned. Banteay Chhmar was left to crumble deep in the jungle. Rainwater seeped into the numerous crack and crevices, causing stones to shift and entire buildings to collapse. In the 1990s, the site became the favourite target of looters. More than 50 square metres of bas-relief and countless pieces of statuary have been stolen from the temple site.

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