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"Saving Our Global Heritage" - the book
"Saving Our Global Heritage" - the book
     
CHIANG SAEN, THAILAND 20°16'N, 100°4'E
13th - 16th c. AD
Lanna Kingdom

SITE
© Owen Carmichael
Chiang Saen, located on the "Golden Triangle" where Myanmar, Laos and Thailand meet, was once an important city in the Lanna Kingdom. The Lanna embraced Buddhism, and their beliefs are reflected in the religious structures erected during the kingdom's reign. Majestic temples, chedis (also called stupas or pagodas) and shrines, as well as magnificent Buddha images were constructed to honour the great Buddha. Sadly, many of these buildings and sculptures have suffered from years of neglect. The city, which covers about 200 hectares, contains approximately 35 temples, the majority of which are covered in vegetation and close to collapse. The old city walls that surrounded Chiang Saen have all but ceased to exist. These once mighty fortifications that protected the city are now reduced to rubble and, in turn, in need of protection.

The Lanna Kingdom was established by King Mengrai (AD 1259-1317). His grandson, King Saen Pu, founded the city of Chiang Saen in 1328. For 200 years the Lanna Kingdom flourished, becoming a centre for literature and the arts, reaching its zenith in the middle of the 15th century. Its capital was located at Chiang Mai, but Chiang Saen, just northeast of the capital, remained an important and powerful city. In 1558 Chiang Saen was captured by the Burmese who retained control of the city until King Rama I of Siam seized control in 1804, ordering it burnt to the ground.

ARCHITECTURE
© Owen Carmichael
The brick wats (temples) of Chiang Saen survived the Siamese invasion. These religious monuments offer an impressive display of the architectural and artistic achievements of the Chiang Saen citizens. Wat Pa Sak, built in 1295 by, then Prince, Saen Pu, is one of the oldest temples in Chiang Saen. The temple grounds, which cover 6.5 hectares of land, contain 22 historic remains. The main bell-shaped chedi, considered to be the most beautiful of the Lanna style, has five tapering spires.

Wat Chedi Luang was constructed about the same time. This temple houses the largest chedi in Chiang Saen, standing 59 metres high. The chedi rests on an octagonal base and was made of brick plastered with stucco, with traces of bronze covering still visible on the spire. Wat Phra That Chom Kitti stands on a small hill just outside the northeast corner of the city walls. The temple is accessible by 383 steps leading up the hill. Wat Phra That Ngao was recently moved to its present location. Originally the temple stood on the banks of the river and was subject to constant erosion from the tides. The townspeople decided to relocate the temple further inland, on the site of an ancient, long-deserted temple. While clearing the forest a huge Buddha image was found, which was slated for recovery and restoration. Digging continued, and a magnificent, even older Buddha image was uncovered. The image, made of limestone and then gilded, had been deliberately buried, the reasons for which are still unclear.

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